Wayoshusai Hide: one of Japan's best izakaya, in Osaka
Wayoshusai Hide (和洋酒菜 ひで) is, by the numbers, one of the best izakaya in Japan — a Tabelog score north of 4.0, a Tabelog Award, and a fixture on the Izakaya WEST 100 list — tucked into Shinsaibashi in the heart of Osaka. The name says it all: 和洋酒菜, “Japanese-and-Western dishes for drinking.” It looks like an izakaya and feels like one, but the fish and the cooking are at counter level.
The food
This is a fish-first kitchen, and a serious one. Expect pristine sashimi, charcoal-grilled fish — swordfish, kinmedai, barracuda — and the season’s luxuries when they’re in: Hokkaido ankimo (monkfish liver), firefly squid in spring, the occasional whale. The wa-yō idea runs underneath it all: a Japanese backbone with the odd Western turn, dishes built to be eaten slowly over a drink rather than marched through as a fixed course. The Western turn shows most at the main course: grilled wagyu, sliced, with cracked black pepper and a homemade tartar sauce.
And the drink is half the point. Hide is as particular about its sake as its fish; this is a place to let the staff pour you something good and keep eating.
Worth the trip
Dinner runs roughly ¥10,000–15,000, and it’s dinner only. For an izakaya that’s a splurge — but you’re getting counter-grade fish and cooking without the counter’s hush or price tag, in a room that wants you to relax. Among Osaka’s essential meals, and proof that some of the country’s best eating isn’t at a starred sushi-ya at all.
Tips before visiting
The collection of sake here is superb, do please drink it with the savoy dishes cooked by the chef, otherwise it’s a waste.