I started At the Counter after years of eating at Japan's counters — and noticing how often first-timers felt anxious and nervous when they should have felt thrilled, especially when I see more and more inbound customers from the West after covid. Sitting in front of the chef is one of the most generous ways to eat anywhere in the world, but it rewards people who come prepared: a little fluency in the etiquette, the rhythm, and the language turns a nerve-wracking meal into an unforgettable one. Everything here is written to get you ready for that seat — so that when the first course lands, you can stop worrying about the rules and simply enjoy what the chef has made for you.