Nishiazabu Otake: pared-back Japanese cooking near Roppongi
Nishiazabu Otake (西麻布 大竹) sits on a quiet street in Nishi-Azabu, about ten minutes’ walk from Nogizaka and an easy reach from Roppongi. It’s small — eleven seats, a seven-seat counter and a couple of private rooms — with the calm, unshowy feel of a serious Japanese kitchen. Tabelog regulars rate it among the country’s 100 Best Japanese Cuisine restaurants. It is also one of the one-star michelin restaurants in Tokyo.
The food
This is orthodox Japanese cuisine (nihon-ryōri), not sushi — a seasonal course built on a philosophy of hikizan, “subtraction.” The idea is to take things away rather than pile them on: to let a good ingredient taste of itself, with as little as possible between it and you. It’s refined without being austere, and it has a sense of humour. The food at Otake is rather simple and never overpolished to show off the how premium the ingredients are. For example the seasonal cream croquette — a plush, nostalgic yōshoku touch that regulars come back for, which is also my favorite.
Worth the trip
Dinner runs roughly ¥20,000 for the course; on weekends there’s a shorter lunch around ¥8,000–10,000 (two people minimum). For that you get a calm counter, a chef cooking with restraint and confidence, and a room that feels like a secret — a quietly excellent alternative to Nishi-Azabu’s flashier addresses.
Tips before visiting
Chef Otake followed the same master as the chef of Seizan, both are originally from Gifu. If you are not able to book Seizan, I highly recommend you to try here instead. Otake is very easy to book, you can simply book at Tabelog one or two days before your visit. The volume of the meal is big, keep your stomach empty before you go.